Apex Seals The real facts with no hype

RR has tested many different types and styles and types of apex seals over the years. 
The ultimate focus being on meeting the or exceeding the proven level of durability given 
by the Mazda OEM product. Sadly the absolute plethora of “steel race apex seal wannabe manufacturers” 
fail this very basic requirement, no wonder given their lack of engineering credentials which is only 
exceeded by the lack of detail of their *magic man unbreakable offerings* 
(all while offering you a worthless token guarantee of satisfaction) 
If you want a totally impartial scientific view that is based off years of experience from running arguably
the most powerful highest reliability truly dependable rotary powered cars then you know you can get the real facts right here.

These are all apex seal placed on a high precision surface ground reference block to check retention of shape on the most important leading 
edge of the seal, you can see not all are created equal especially when you discount the HYPE of talking about single digit methanol fueled 
2 stroke model aero plane "smoke show" drag wonders running as much oil as they do fuel to make inferior materials go the distance 
(all 400 meters of it, a few times lol!) 

these are all long term road/circuit cars run at very high power/stress levels. 
***LOOK FOR LIGHT BETWEEN BLOCK AND APEX SEAL, more light = more distorted seal and less power and much less compression! 

how much power are you throwing away??? by listening to toilet paper quality promises of the "best apex seal that’s unbreakable LOL***

ALL seals run with totally new parts, same tune up and a minimum of 100:1 fuel to oil ratio

Highest Quality NRS 2 piece ceramic seal in circuit race application BP Turbo car 600bhp *as new!*


Summernats winner Capella with another FAILED BHP steel seal "wonder product" can smash it in a vice with hammer but that does not equal durability in an engine LOL ! sub 60 psi compression


Next is a Mazda OEM seal, last much longer than the *wonder hammer smashable in vice heap of dog turd* but still = EPIC FAIL in long term durability testing ! 60 psi compression!


Yet another failure of a 3rd "amazing" steel product, so have vice, CNC, hacksaw, wire cutter and glossy web page promise written on toilet paper = well you know what you wipe you're rear end with :)


Carbon seal = rooted ! taper wear, chewed ends, bad wear on leading edge = very low power... All serious N/A racers only use cermaic apex seals, much 
better wear than steel, same weight as carbon, they don't rape rotor housings, and last forever in N/A application in championship winning circuit race cars. 
***remember Mazda factory won the Le Mans 24Hr after implementing modern ceramic technology, to get over problems with steel (of which they make arguably the 
best most durable of this type of OLD TECH.) and carbon which simply loose too much power too quickly from new, and were not strong enough for all situations***